Florence
The View
We were fortunate to stay in an Airbnb apartment on the plaza of the massive Cathedral di Santa Maria di Fiore, with tremendous direct views of this impressive structure, known simply as “the Duomo.” It’s worth researching in advance how to best view and appreciate this center of Florentine life and history. While it is possible to climb to viewing platforms on both Brunelleschi’s renowned dome and Giotto’s bell tower, it was 102° F during our time in Florence, and climbing over 400 steps in a cramped and un-ventilated stairway, in a long line of tourists, wasn’t appealing.
Instead, we opted to purchase the Ghiberti Pass, which provided access to the cathedral, baptistery, the ancient church underground, and the Duomo Museum (more on museum, below). The Baptistery of St. John was, in short, stunning. The dome mosaics, completed in the 13th and 14 centuries, feature dozens of beautifully executed Biblical scenes from Genesis to Revelation. The bronze doors by Ghiberti were no less impressive. (The original doors, including the Gates of Paradise are now found in the Duomo Museum, for purposes of preservation.)
Our visit to the cathedral (quite simple in comparison to the baptistery) and the ancient church, underground and a great break from the heat, rounded out our tour of the Duomo monuments.
Also Check Out
It would be impossible to see the most amazing artwork in Florence on short visit. We picked two museums, well-regarded but known to be less crowded than the Uffizi and Accademia, and made the most of them.
In the Duomo Museum, we had the opportunity to view Ghiberti’s Gates of Paradise and other artifacts and art from the Duomo up close, along with other works by Michelangelo and Donatello (including his emotive Mary Magdelane, below), among others. Fully renovated in 2015, the museum was laid out for peaceful exploration, with each room designed to showcase the pieces, and show their place in Florentine history. The Duomo Museum was my favorite museum of our time in Italy.
I also really liked a few morning hours at the Bargello National Museum, set in a historic former palace, barracks and prison, with sculptures, tapestries and other works displayed in both indoor and shaded outdoor settings. I particularly appreciated the Donatello works and the 14th century frescoes in the Chapel of Mary Magdelane.
While in Florence, we also enjoyed an early morning walk to Ponte Vecchio and across the River Arno, to the Villa Bardini, and a visit to the Perfumery Santa Maria Novella.
The Room
The most unique lodging of our 2 weeks in Italy was in Florence, at the wonderful and welcoming Renaissance Apartment. Located in a 14th century building overlooking the Duomo exterior and lavishly decorated in Florentine Baroque style, we felt that we had truly stepped into another world. (Just look at the listing! I thought it might end up being kitschy … but it was not.) While located in the middle of everything, the apartment was quiet, peaceful and private. Moreover, though the decor and extensive artwork invoked an earlier time, the apartment included a modern washer/dryer and well-equipped kitchen.
Note: This very well-reviewed property is always booked, and I am sure we were able to secure it only by booking many months in advance.
Great Meals in Florence
Florence ended up being our best meal location, and it is where I ate the most delicious pasta, gelato and non-Italian food of the trip.
We enjoyed a fantastic pasta lunch at Trattoria ZaZa, a highly rated yet casual Florentine hot spot. Because we had not planned ahead with a dinner reservation, we showed up at the opening of the lunch hour. (We were out and about early to avoid the heat.) I enjoyed a life-changing linguini with walnut sauce (a first for me), Johnny had the lamb ragu, and we shared some truly great Peperonata (marinated olives and vegetables). The menu also included unique and intense Italian sodas, and delightful desserts.
Florence is known for beef, and we enjoyed a great steak dinner at one of the many spots that serve this local treat near our Airbnb. One enormous t-bone steak, accompanied by roasted potatoes and green salad was more than enough for us.
Finally, after dining on solely Italian cuisine, we were ready for a change of pace. We had two great lunches at the Mercato Centrale, where we found a variety of counter-service stalls in an expansive space upstairs from the grocery and take-out shops on the first floor. We enjoyed both Cuban and Asian food, as well as amazing gelato.
How We Got Around
From Sorrento, we took the commuter train to Naples, then the high speed train to Florence. We traveled around Florence on foot.
