Page, AZ
The View
The drive from Zion to Page, AZ is just over two hours, but there are a day’s worth of places to see on the way. In addition to our leisurely drive long the Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway (see prior post), we stopped for lunch in historic Kanab, UT and then explored the Toadstool Hoodoos, about 12 miles west of Big Water.
Kanab’s historic downtown displays the town’s past as a Hollywood set for Westerns and other films (including a Little Hollywood museum, which we did not visit) and its present as a surprisingly hip main street with varied dining and vintage motels. We had a truly great lunch at the Brown Box Bakeshop, where the fantastic grilled cheese, piping hot tomato soup and dessert selection chased away the early spring chill.
About 40 minutes further on Route 89, we easily located the trailhead and parking lot for the Toadstool Hoodoos. At this point in the day, it was cool and very windy, which highlighted the feeling that we had entered some sort of harsh alternate reality. We followed the trail markings along a dried and desolate river bed approximately 1 mile to the hoodoos and what seemed to be a surrounding moonscape (see first 4 photos, below). Although the environment was somewhat unforgiving (and would presumably be almost intolerable in full summer heat), it was well worth the time and energy to explore this unique area.
The Room
We arrived in Page to rest up for the night and do laundry in our Tiny House Airbnb, located in a quiet mid-century residential neighborhood near downtown Page. I was so thankful we stayed here instead of one of the seemingly dozens of roadside chain hotels we saw on our way into town.
The home was tiny, but unique, charming, very well-appointed and quiet. It included the most comfortable bed of this trip, and the added bonus of a full-size laundry set-up. We easily made an early breakfast in the tiny kitchen area, before heading out for our next day’s adventures. I highly recommend this affordable and adorable property.
We had a delightful fried chicken dinner at hip and busy Bird House, including some great slaw and other veggie sides.
The next day, we visited several Page-area attractions before heading out for our final stop, Sedona, AZ. Early in the day, before the crowds and the intense sun arrived, we visited the very popular Horseshoe Bend of the Colorado River (center photo, below) where we, along with a busload of international tourists, photographed the location and explored a bit on foot.
We intended to next visit the Glen Canyon Dam and its visitor center, which turned out to be closed that day. Instead, we walked over the pedestrian bridge to view the dam and drove a few miles to the Wahweep Overlook, where we were able to see first-hand the very consequential loss of water in Lake Powell, the Colorado River and nearby areas, due to climate change.
Page is known for its access to nearby slot canyons, including the very popular Antelope Canyon, and we didn’t want to miss the experience. These canyons are situated in Native American land, and can only be visited by booking a paid tour. After doing some research, and seeing what was available at mid-day (the best time to view the canyons since the sun is overhead), we chose Waterholes Canyon over Antelope and other more well-known options.
Waterholes is a newer tour operation, and its tour was both longer and, by all accounts, more laid-back than would have been the case at Antelope Canyon (where tours are costlier, shorter and people are reportedly rushed through). Since I have not been to Antelope Canyon, I cannot truly compare the two, but I know we enjoyed our 90-minute time at Waterholes, including the conversation with our young, local tour guide. There were about 10 people on our tour, and no tour buses in the lot.
After our canyon tour, we began the 2.5 hour trip to Sedona. As with other segments of our trip, the geography changed dramatically in a matter of miles, as we left the desert surrounding Page, drove through some very desolate areas, and eventually climbed elevation to green and mountainous Flagstaff, before (carefully) working our way down the switchback-filled canyon to peaceful Sedona, with its stunning red rock structures.
On the way, and at a local friend’s suggestion, we stopped for lunch and a breather at the Cameron Trading Post, an oasis in the middle of essentially nowhere. The lunch was fairly standard, but the historic dining room, local servers, and view were worth it. Even if there were other options in the area (and there are not), this was a good choice.
