Praiano
The View
Praiano is not the most well-known of the villages dotting the Amalfi Coast, but it must be among the most charming. Less busy and upscale than Positano, yet still situated on the stunning coastal drive, Praiano feels like the place where your Italian uncle might live, rather than a playground for the rich.
The views of both the water and the pastel-hued historic towns, all perched on sharp inclines, are stunning. (Between the hills, the stairs and the cobblestones, this is not a great location for anyone with mobility issues.) I especially enjoyed our walk down to Gavitella Beach via a stone path that started near the San Genarro Church, and wound itself down through small houses and gardens and a long set of stone stairs to the water level. We walked through and past the “beach club” to the public (and free) area, where we could easily enter the warm and lightly rolling water and enjoy sun on the rocks with the locals. As an avid swimmer, this was a lovely experience for me.
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We enjoyed our walk around town, including a visit to the humble San Genarro Church, with its impressive bronze doors featuring the Apostles.
One of the most popular activities on the Amalfi Coast is a private boat tour to the island of Capri or other attractions on and in the water. These are typically all-day outings in the sun, are pricey, and can involve arriving at a popular location, only to find dozens of other boats vying for access to the same grotto or photo spot.
We opted for a shorter coastal tour, which worked well for Johnny but not me when I became seasick on the choppy water. I then experienced a terrifying white-knuckle speedboat ride back to the marina, during which my spare clothes, but thankfully not my cell phone, ended up in the water. Moreover, we were told the tour boat would be shaded, but it was not, due to the windy conditions. I hate to speak so negatively of what would probably be a great experience for others, but if you are prone to motion sickness or have other issues on the water/in the sun, this type of boat excursion might not be for you.
The Room
We stayed in a simple Airbnb property just steps from shops and the bus stop, but positioned off the main coastal road. The 1-bedroom apartment adjacent to the host’s home featured a patio with amazing views of the water, Praiano and distant Positano. It wasn’t luxurious, but the price, location and amenities (including laundry and a small but fully-equipped kitchen) worked well for us. We were able to easily walk a few blocks into town and to the small grocery market, restaurants and path down to the water. Some of Praino’s properties are much further up the steep hills. The view would be wonderful from those locations, but it seems to me that getting around the area would be more challenging.
Great Meals in Praiano
We enjoyed a casual pizza and salad dinner at Che Bonta, a 2-minute walk from our apartment. At the recommendation of our host, we ventured a bit further (up a fairly steep hill, of course) to Kasai, where we experienced great upscale pasta and seafood, in a lovely location overlooking the water. We were too disorganized to have a reservation, but were advised that if we arrived at the time the restaurant opened, we could likely be seated, and we were.
For our breakfast and lunch, we purchased fresh fruit, eggs, bread and prosciutto at the small grocery market in Praiano, just a 5 - 10 minute stroll from our apartment.
How We Got Around
From Rome, we took the high-speed train to Naples, and then a car service into the Amalfi Peninsula, to Praiano (arranged by our Airbnb host). This was much quicker than public transit options, although more costly. Within Praiano, we walked and took the local (and free) mini-bus to and from the marina.
