Sorrento
The View
Sorrento is lovely and lively, overlooking the water and with street after street of busy shops catering to tourists, both kitschy and upscale. Sorrento is know for its carved wood decor, and the lemon and limoncello motifs, which we saw everywhere.
Our primary activity in Sorrento was a day trip to Pompeii to see the historic ruins. We booked a great walking tour through Airbnb, which I would highly recommend doing, unless you are already very knowledgeable about the site and its history. I was surprised at how well-preserved the ruins were, and really enjoyed our time there. Our guide did an excellent job of discussing not only the destruction of Pompeii, but its founding and the daily life of its residents.
We took the commuter train to Pompeii from Sorrento, and planned an early arrival in case of delays (which we did experience). After our time in the park, we grabbed a quick bite at one of the many restaurants near the entrance. I wasn’t expecting much when it came to the food, but it was actually decent and fairly affordable.
The only meal of note we had in Sorrento itself was at O’ Parrucchiano La Favorita, recommended by our hotel hosts. This enormous restaurant is a favorite with tourists (which we tend to avoid), and the food is fairly standard, but the lovely and local atmosphere was well worth it. The restaurant is filled with twinkling lights and lemon trees, including indoors, and opens into a citrus grove, where we enjoyed a stroll after dinner. I’m still not sure how this all was possible in the middle of bustling Sorrento, but it was.
Since O’ Parrucchiano is so well known, most guests book reservations well in advance. We had not done so, but arrived at least 30 minutes before they opened for dinner, and waited in the antique-filled and air conditioned lobby, along with a few others. We were easily seated at a very nice table, and had already ordered and were enjoying the views as the crowds came in.
The Room
We enjoyed our stay at Sorrento Stylish Rooms, located approximately 10 minutes by foot from the bus stop/train station, in the heart of the food and shopping scene, but a block or two off the main strip and down a quiet cobblestone alleyway. The location was great for us. The property consists of only four rooms occupying one floor of a historic building, and was clean, very freshly renovated, and included a substantial breakfast delivered to the room. The owners met us on our arrival and provided helpful information and instructions. One caveat - the bed was VERY firm. While I anticipated this being a problem, we actually slept very well, perhaps from sheer exhaustion. I recommend this property.
How We Got Around
Traveling from Praiano to Sorrento involves crossing from the southern coast of the peninsula to the northwest, a distance of about 14 miles on the winding coastal road. Rather than pay again for a car, we spent approximately $2 on the Sita bus, which we picked up near our Airbnb and rode approximately an hour into downtown Sorrento.
Obtaining tickets for the bus was not as easy as imagined, and involved checking several possible ticket sale locations in Praiano before finally making the purchase. Even so, I was glad we had the tickets in advance, as the bus was standing-room-only and the driver turned away passengers who attempted to pay the fare on board. We essentially forced our way onto the bus and then declined to get off, Bronx-style. (To be honest, the driver seemed to expect push-back, and didn’t press the issue.) The route along the coast was death-defying, and involved delays in clogged Positano, but none of this seemed to bother our very skilled and relaxed driver, and therefore did not bother me.
We explored Sorrento by foot, and made our trip to Pompeii on the local commuter train, which gave us the opportunity to see more of the area.